24 January 2017 - W F Moss Scenic Reserve, Upper Riwaka, Tasman Bay

Motueka Beach

It was not the weather that deterred us the next day but my dodgy digestive system, playing up as it does from time to time. I suspect it’s all psychosomatic although to be that there is usually a subconscious cunning plan beneath it all, and for the life of me I have yet to figure it out. However, I did try and we ventured beyond the comforts of our little house-on-wheels, albeit tentatively.

The remains of the Janie Seddon

We woke to a glorious day, despite the weird cloud formations of the previous evening, the type that often bode the coming of poor weather. We even ventured into shorts and sandals, items that had been stored away after hanging about on hand just in case, for oh-so long. We drove into the centre of Motueka, shopped, dumped and picked up regional brochures from the iSite, then drove to the beach on the northern edge of town, parking near the wreck of the Janie Seddon, last used to lug coal, beached here in 1955. Cycle trails abound in the Tasman Bay, including one all along the waterfront here, and we walked a short distance along to one of the old earth built wharves and Chris read the information panels.

We lingered for a while trying to gauge the severity of my ailment, until I convinced my husband that we should proceed as per our Plan A, on up the coast to Kaiteriteri and beyond. So we drove on through Motueka and Riwaka, passing orchards and vineyards; apples, apples, everywhere … but not a one to buy and eat!

Marahau and the Abel Tasman Track

Kaiteriteri, fifteen kilometres beyond Motueka, is supposedly one of New Zealand’s most beautiful beaches, a sheltered bay of white sands with cafes, motor camps and motels to cater for visitors. There are also extensive car parks but never enough, hence we have never actually stopped there and walked about to savour the wonders for ourselves. Both our drive-throughs have occurred at the peak of summer (or the time summer is supposed to occur) and there has never been enough space for us to park; this is a problem one suffers time after time in England, but who would think little old New Zealand  could possibly be the same!.

Instead we continued on over the hill to Sandy Bay, crossing the estuary on the causeway and arriving at Marahau,  the beginning of the Abel Tasman Track, another of New Zealand’s Great Walks, this a fifty one kilometre three to five day trek that can be kayaked in part. We walked just twenty minutes to Stu’s Lookout then turned back to the busy National Park’s info centre, which again was left for Chris to explore. It is normally I who spends the time absorbing all the history and other information on offer, as you will have already deduced from reading this blog!

The uninspirational Riwaka Resurgence

We returned to the main highway via the inland route, no less winding than the coastal road, but less busy with traffic.

We were keen to revisit the Riwaka Resurgence at the foot of the Takaka Hill, where the Riwaka River seems to rise from the bowels of the earth like a great spring. In truth, it flows down through the subterranean channels between the limestone caverns that honeycomb the Hill. When we came ten years ago, we were fascinated by the crystal clear water in the pool at the point of resurgence. There were many others here all standing about the rocks in the bush marvelling at this geological wonder and the magic of the place, apparently respected by Maori, was contagious. So much so in fact that a couple of lovely young foreign women stripped down to their skin and dived into the sacred waters, adding to the whole inspirational scene. Perhaps “inspirational” is not the word that the male members of the audience felt; that I leave to your imagination.

Baring legs in sunny Motueka

Alas yesterday there were no water nymphs, or crystal clear water,  only steel platforms, barriers and stairs above a murky hole that was anything but inspirational. It was altogether a disappointment, in fact we wondered if we were even at the same spot.

In its favour however, credit must be given to DOC or the regional wombles who have redeveloped the parking and picnic areas. It is a charming spot to come and laze beside the river, for children to pick their way about the river stones and to offer oneself to the sand-flies for desert.

On the drive up the valley road we had noted a reserve and a few motorhomes parked up, so on our return, we called in to check the situation out. Here we found an ideal spot to overnight, free parking for self-contained vehicles together with a dubious long-drop toilet and a river full of water to serve all one’s needs. 

Pretty St Thomas Anglican Church in main street Motueka

This morning I woke to the chorus of bellbirds, the call of wekas somewhere up in the bush and yet another sunny day, and best of all no sign of yesterday’s niggles. After breakfast we headed back east to Nelson, a distance of some sixty kilometres and had the cover of our 240vt power hatch which had arrived from Christchurch, installed. This was done efficiently for an incredibly modest fee; we have yet to receive the bill for the replacement part.

Happy to have the repair done, we returned to our little spot here up the Riwaka valley, after stopping en route in Motueka. There we wandered at leisure up and down the street, spending our cash here and there; a bottle of wine, three books, a new belt, a set of replacement coasters, the latter items from the Hospice Shop. We became quite attached to charity shops in Australia when we were travelling there and although they are not as numerous here as they are in Australia and England, they are always worth checking out.