Sunday 20 October 2019

20 October 2019 - Onerahi, Whangarei Harbour, Northland



Before I started this I checked to see when I had last posted on this blog, and was surprised to see it was way back in May when we were still out camped on Jumbo. Of course I should not have been so because our lives since then have revolved around restoring The Big House to our standard of liveable,  or re-let, because even now, all balls remain in the air; such is our life.

Our tenant moved out, the process stretching out longer than her intention, namely because she was intent on leaving it as clean as possible, and this she did to her credit. The agent came to do the inspection and we waved her away, still basking in the understanding we had had an exemplary tenant for the past eight years. Even in the first days after we parked our motorhome back up beside the house, our only gripe was the about the missing garage door openers, which were subsequently replaced, the cost being deducted from the tenant’s bond. But that was only the start of it all.

We knew the carpets were worn in places, but had no idea as to the extent. Together with the threadbare state and stains that would not come out, the carpet was in desperate need of replacement. We pulled it all up and continued out work on bare floors for the ensuing months. The front door lock functioned only intermittently and so what with that and the lack of garage door openers, entry to the house became somewhat problematic. Window catches were either missing or unusable, light bulbs were missing, the multi-bulb light fittings reduced to one probably in an attempt to save power. 

Lounge floors sagged and were found to have rotted out from water damage. The cupboards in the garage were waterlogged from on-going water ingress. Catches and hinges on the kitchen cabinetry had worn out and not been attended to, rendering the doors unable to close. The big trees in the back yard were in serious promise of falling and the garden shed had undergone damage from adventurous children clambering on the roof to climb those dodgy trees. Shower mixers were difficult to use, and so the list went on… and on, and on.  We were up for serious repairs!

And so we worked away for four months, and have continued on but at a more reduced state, my poor able husband having worn himself out. My own contributions have been more as dogsbody and errand “boy”, although I was quite handy when it came to taking the carpet up and loading and unloading the many trips to the tip as we disposed of old cabinetry and the like.

At the end of September we decided that after all our effort; we absolutely could not face re-letting the house, notified the agency of our decision and have since been shopping for new furniture, another costly and confusing exercise.

Thus is my excuse for not having posted and for having little to contribute in the way of travel reports. However we have taken a few days out here and there, albeit so very minimally, giving the motorhome a bit of a run to remind it that it is not just a residence for hard workers but mobile accommodation for the travel minded.

One sunny day, and there have been few of them, we headed out to Marsden Point on the southern point of the Whangarei Harbour.  This is where New Zealand’s only oil refinery is situated and it is this refinery that put Whangarei on the map.  Certainly the city, declared as such in 1964, had been Northland’s service centre since the latter part of the 19th century, but when I moved here in 1983, it was still a quiet backwater with about 40,000 inhabitants.

Construction of the refinery began in 1962 and it became operational two years later. Nine years later, the government helped fund a $160 million expansion. Then in 1981, during Prime Minister Muldoon’s Think Big years and the subsequent spinoff, there was further expansion which included a 170 kilometre pipeline to Wiri in South Auckland.  The project was plagued with strikes, and then in 1985, the refinery shut down for five months for maintenance of the old refinery. A year later everything was ready to go again after a total cost of $1.84 billion. Many of the people I first met and mixed with, including my brother-in-law, were involved in that shutdown, so the refinery’s existence was certainly upper most in my mind. I remember my young son being taken out onto the job one day with his uncle; those were the days when health and safety regulations were more relaxed.
Later, much more recently, the adjacent establishment of Northland Port, mainly focused on timber exporting, was developed, and that and the side industries were very much part of our clientele when I was still working.

So this is a very significant part of our regional raison-d’etre, and so it is worthy of checking out from time to time. Alas the little parking spot at the end of the road, where self-contained motorhomes are most welcome to stay overnight, is not level. I guess that if you were intent on staying, you would use every levelling block in your store and possibly reach an acceptable horizontal, unless you are as we are, paranoid about upsetting the workings of the gas fridge. 

However for us we reached an acceptable spot for a morning tea spot, to consume the amazingly tasty and generous pastries we had purchased at a ridiculously expensive price at the big Highway One crossroads, more specifically the Italian Bakery.  This excellent bakery, (excellent if you have an Auckland price mentality) sells its wares that are baked back down the road at Kaiwaka. Apparently in the latter months of my father’s life, he and his son-in-law, used to pull in there for decadent pies, refusing to acknowledge that such mega-calories are inappropriate for morning snacks. I guess that for my father in the latter weeks of his semi-mobile life, this was irrelevant; not so for my brother-in-law who spends his life fighting his genetic makeup.

At the end of the road, we thus dined decadently with our cups of instant coffee, then walked out toward the jetties that serve the ships refilling their fuel tanks. The wild flowers along the way were absolutely delightful, particularly the fragrant freesias which I picked and subsequent forgot, leaving in the camper sink. 

This part of the harbour is now subject to a rahui established last year to protect all shellfish species, although fishing and surfcasting sit outside this cultural tapu. It also discourages vehicles from being driven on the beach in the area as it impacts on the rejuvenation of the shellfish and destroys habitat. (A rahui, a Maori concept is a form of tapu restricting access to, or use of, an area or restrict by the kaitiakitanga of the area.) This is a most effective conservational measure without passing police-able laws.




As for us who were not interested in gathering shellfish, running our toy-dog through the habitat of shorebirds, or any other such destructive behaviour, the restriction had no impact. As we walked westward along the edge of the Whangarei Harbour, we were more taken with the mass of gulls who were gathering in an area inside the security fenced refinery area.  I have never seen such an intense gathering apart from perhaps the gannet colony at Muriwai.

From here on looms directly across the harbour to Reotahi, where an old friend of mine lives and still to this day, I believe, commutes across the harbour in his small fishing boat to salvage logs inadvertently lost over the side of ships as they are loaded for export to far off lands. And above Reotahi, stands the impressive craggy heights of Mount Aubrey, as imposing although not as high as Mount Manaia and Bream Head a little further east.

From here we travelled up the harbour a little to Marsden Cove Marina, an on-going work in progress by Hopper Development since a date they don’t advertise on their website because the massive delays are no doubt nothing to celebrate. Despite the delay in the extensive locked canal system and the residential development, there is a world class 23 berth Marina capable of accommodating vessels up to thirty five metres in length,  80 tonnes and multihulls up to a 12 metres beam, complete with customers’ services, fuel dock, retail facilities (most importantly the cafĂ©) and a public boat ramp. It is worth checking out on a short detour from the main road north, as is the Refinery Information Centre if you are not familiar with the workings of such operations.


At the Marina, we set off for a walk along the footpath above the marina berth, a pastime my husband absolutely loves, given that he would probably be happier on a boat than in a motorhome with his marine-averse wife, but the wind was unpleasant and we soon returned to our refuge.

And so ended our days outing to the other side of the harbour.

More exciting was our short trip sown to the annual Hamilton Motorhome Show at Mystery Creek. Neither of us had ever attended any event at Mystery Creek, and so the attraction was double edged. The most well-known event here is the annual Agricultural Fielddays for which it was originally established. The 114 hectares property was setup to cater for industry leading events, namely agriculture, but more recently the annual motorhome show.

The Field Days event was set up in 1968, and the first event held at the Te Rapa Racecourse in Hamilton. The site was purchased in 1970 and has become a nationwide recognised even ever since, although I have to say that when I was living the wild days of my first-independence in Hamilton in the early 1970s, I was not aware of its existence, despite having come from a farming background; obviously more important things on my mind.

This year was our first, and we were astounded at the turnout, not only of the visitors, both daily and multi-day, but more those who chose to stay at the venue, for the modest fee of $5 for the entire show. Obviously our show entry was on top of that.

My husband loves such shows, and I do too, for the first day. He can spend day after day after day, combing through every exhibit and then all over again; me not so much. However our main objective was to check out electric bikes and gather all the information any would be buyers should have before making such a massive investment, because they are seriously expensive.

The first day we encountered an excellent salesman, who had us trial out a series of e-bikes, an exercise more important than any of you can imagine, given my terror of riding a bike. I did fall off at one point but was otherwise captivated. Apart from that I was simply (or not-so-simply) bamboozled by all the information and conflicting advice we were given. I was very glad we came away with the purchase of e-bikes still a futuristic thought bubble.

However we did come away with an appointment to call on motorhome battery and solar power experts at  Silverdale. So we did call upon them on our way north, coming away with much needed new and upgraded batteries. Leaving their workshop after bleeding our bank account, we came north via the Wenderholme Regional Park and lunched in one of our favourite en route spots. It’s a lovely spot to stay and play, and equally just to pop into for a break from the road and refuel the body, before heading north on the road back to Whangarei.