Saturday, 7 February 2015

7 February 2015 Te Anau, Fiordland



Much goes on about us of which I make little or no mention. Wild fires have very recently devastated areas around Richmond in Marlborough, beach settlements north of Kaiapoi and great swathes of pasture west of Arthur Pass. Naively I have always considered we New Zealanders immune from such disasters, but we are not, and we should be as careful of our camping and travelling habits as we were in Australia. Fire has no boundaries, national or otherwise. My cousin Pamela sent me a text over a week ago, quite concerned that we might be in the midst of the inferno west of Christchurch. We were far away so I was able to assure her we were quite safe. I read in the newspaper this morning that significant earthquakes had been experienced in the North Island near Gisborne, and of course overseas, wars and disasters carry on regardless of the frivolous touring of yours truly. Across the ditch, the Australian Prime Minister’s hold on his leadership is being challenged, if only by the media hungry for scandal, and I read that the Chief Minister of the Northern Territory was also in danger of being rumbled from his position; all matters that absorbed us when we were travelling around that country. Life goes on and no blog or like report can cover all the happenings of the world, and so I will stick to this travel journey of our own.

On waking this morning, we found the day much improved and as the day progressed summer again ruled the skies. After dealing with mundane housekeeping matters, we headed back to Lumsden, less than a kilometre, purchased the weekend newspaper and checked out the Information Centre cum Craft Centre. Quite frankly, knitted and crocheted wares do not do a lot for me unless I am particularly seeking a beanie or warm gloves, but I can confirm that there has been much energy and industry expended by these crafty Southland women, and if it is your thing, please do call. Interestingly the posts on the entry of the old railway station were dressed in knitted stripes in the same manner we had found Tasmania’s  Bridgetown’s trees.

Wandering about the village in the sunshine, we found much more to the place than previously I gave it credit for; a hairdresser, butcher, chemist. Lumsden folk are making an effort to attract both the cycling public and the casual tourist, however much was closed today; perhaps because it was Saturday or perhaps because yesterday was Waitangi Day and folk were making the most of the long weekend.

We headed west toward Mossburn, toward the snow sprinkled mountains, following the Oreti River up the wide attractive valley, passing through Mossburn which has less to offer than Lumsden,  soon the Takitimu Mountains in their glory to the south, the roads to the Manora Lakes heading off to the north along long gravel roads. We drove into these lakes some years ago; my memories are mainly of Chris fighting off the sand-flies while cooking outdoors. These lakes were the location of Peter Jackson’s Lord of the Rings Silverlode River and Fangorn Forest, but this snippet of information is not really that outstanding because this entire area was inspiration, if not always location, for Jackson’s portrayal of Middle Earth .

We passed into the Red Tussock country and up onto the Scientific Wilderness Area. Red Tussock flourished throughout Southland when European settlement began in the mid-1800s but today it is mainly only found in parts of Fiordland or as a garden plant. Pulling into the DOC Wilderness area, so much more spectacular for the snow on the surrounding mountains, we walked through the low growing bog pines, dwarf native conifers or podacarps, to a lookout. Some of these shrubs, although still so low, could be several hundred years old, nature’s own bonsai.
This area of unusual scrubland is an example of how the area may have looked 8,000 to 10,000 years ago, after the last ice age. A harsh environment with freezing temperatures and stony, infertile soils have enabled the mix of hardy shrubs, mosses, lichens and herbs to resist invasion over the centuries;  invasion from forest trees, followed by widespread pre-European fires and most recently, European pastoralisation.  The result is a special remnant community that supports plants and animals rarely found elsewhere. Its importance for bio-diversity is recognised nationally and today the wilderness is actively protected against the latest invader – weeds.

Each bog pine is surrounded by a mossy mat which provides shelter for a host of small creatures include the uncommon black cicada. Alas this was neither visible nor audible today.

We took the opportunity to lunch while parked here then headed off again, soon through to Te Anau, where we sourced a local map and directions to the laundry. After dealing with this mundane task, we checked out a couple of private park over properties and decided instead to head into the industrial area where this little yard is available for NZMCA members for a donation. After setting up, we joined half a dozen other members for Happy Hour and swapped travel notes as you do before holing up in our own little home for dinner. The skies are still clear even with the sun now gone to bed and we are looking forward to another day of marvellous weather. We have walks planned and it is high time we got out and did some serious exercise.

Te Anau is a small resort town situated on the south eastern shore of Lake Te Anua, the largest lake in the South Island, and second largest in the country, after Lake Taupo.  The lake covers an area of 344 square kilometres and is, by fresh water volume, the largest lake in Australasia. The main body of the lake runs north-south and is sixty five kilometres in length. Three large fiords form arms to the lake on its western flank; North Fiord, Middle Fiord and South Fiord. These are the only inland fiords that New Zealand has; the other fourteen are out on the coast. The lake (and the town) lie at an altitude of 210 metres ASL and since the lake’s maximum depth is 417 metres, much of its bed lies below sea level.

The town has a population of just less than 2,000 but over 4,000 tourist beds available in summer. It is the gateway to a wilderness area famed for tramping and spectacular scenery, and needless to say, that is why we have come here. Te Anau is at the base of the Milford Road, and that, more particularly, is why we have come, not so much to go to Milford, but to enjoy the road-to-Milford. As we drove around the lakeshore this afternoon seeking a free or low cost camp, an impossible feat for anyone not a member of the NZMCA or willing to use the commercial camping grounds, we both remarked that it was far lovelier than Lake Taupo, but then that North Island lake is far more commercialised.

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