I take back all the negative comments I made yesterday about
Queenstown; Queenstown is absolutely beautiful and worth whatever parking
challenges one might have!
We woke in our picturesque camp this morning, in the company
of far more than the self-contained motorhomes parked up when we did our camp
recci-walk. At dusk, a whizz-bank van had come in with three young folk, backed
into the lake and in short time, stripped their gear and plunged into the
refreshing waters of Lake Wakatipu; I was so reminded of scenes from “Easy
Rider” when free love and free bathing was de
rigeur. Other camper vans also arrived and set up for the night, none
self-contained and as such, adding to the litter and filth in the bushes. Here
there were no signs for “No Camping” so everyone was camping within their legal
rights, but we would have been a lot happier if there had been signs indicating
tolerance for certified self-contained vehicles only.
Unfortunately the tissue
waste and crap in the bushes will eventually cause this spot to be forbidden to
all, because of the inconsiderate tourists. Of course, I do appreciate it is
possible that these young people are able to control their bladders and other
bits so that they are able to wait until they drive through to Kingston to the
south, or Frankton to the north, but I suspect they don’t even try.
From this gorgeous, albeit desecrated, spot on the shores of
Lake Wakatipu, the road follows the lake shore north, hugging the steep sides
of the rugged landscape. Soon we found our journey slowed to almost a stop; a
massive great flock of ewes and their large un-weaned lambs were being driven
down the highway. We noted at least five “shepherds’ involved in the exercise
and dozens and dozens of travellers effected. Chris was particularly impatient
with our lack of progress and even more so with the sheep shit (his phraseology, not mine) that splatted up the side of
the very recently washed and polished van.
We arrived in Frankton late morning after enjoying the road
trip enormously, and both agreeing that the road was more spectacular driven
north, than south. We found our way to the Remarkables Park Shopping Centre, a
well-manicured and smartly architected collection of shops and car parks. Here
we shopped at the very modern New World supermarket and poked about several of
the other shops for bits and pieces we think we need for the enhancement of our
lives, as you do. As it was nearing lunchtime, we hunted out the free camp spot
near the Shotover River Delta, listed in our NZMCA book and found the small car
park beneath the noisy bridge. We lunched on delicious crusty bread but decided
that we were not enamoured enough by the spot to want to stay overnight. 
We headed into Queenstown and found a park to the north of
the Gardens along the shore, some distance from the township and waterfront,
but still within a healthy walking distance, especially after having consumed
so many calories for lunch. We crossed through the Queenstown Gardens,
originally established in 1866 when the first Mayor of the town planted the
first two trees, English Oaks, to commemorate the incorporation of the borough.
However it was not until he following year that the gardens were officially
opened and major planting began.
They really are lovely and offer a traditional touch to the
otherwise commercially driven resort. Here can be found the band rotunda,
rebuilt several times, stone bridges, fountains in the lily pond, and colourful
floral displays in well planned garden beds. From here we headed down to the
town foreshore to find thousands of tourists lying about on the sand or grassy
lawns, peeled off as far as decorum allowed , and some not too concerned for
such niceties, and none at all concerned about the ravages of sunburn and skin
cancer. In fairness I have to say that almost all the reclining bods were fine
specimens of human kind which is more than you can say for the average beach
scene.
We wandered about the town, delighting in the vibrant
atmosphere and the bright sunshine. Queenstown was just fabulous today; the
cafes were full, the souvenir shops and more sophisticated retail outlets were
all doing a great trade. We caught a glimpse of the International Cricket being
played out between the Black Caps and the Scots in Dunedin today in a food hall
while consuming a couple of rather pricey soft serves. We passed Mrs Ferg, where tourists were lined up
at the counter for their gelatos, next door’s Ferg Baker where they indulged in more standard fare and Ferg Burger where at least fifty waited in a
queue to try the famous Ferg Burger.
Chris decided that he has consumed quite enough for one day, and more than
that, was not prepared to wait in line
for an expensive hamburger, albeit a very tasty one. We walked up the
hill behind the town checking out the parking areas recommended by the sweet
young thing in the Information Centre and decided we were probably better where
we were, and decided to spend another day in the melee tomorrow.
With decisions made, we walked back along the foreshore,
lingering to watch an amazing spectacle, a chap balancing on a water jet at the
end of a flexi-pipe generated by a jet ski, rising up and down, then plunging
into the lake waters like a dolphin, then rising once again; we had never seen
the likes of it. We watched too as the TSS
Earnslaw docked with a boatload of satisfied tourists and marvelled at yet
another swish craft fashioned on a jet ski but looking more like a space ship.
Here along the boardwalk, one can book and partake in an assortment of water
based adventures, including the para-gliding from water drawn craft.
Back at the motorhome, I had to admit that I had been wrong
about Queenstown; it is indeed an amazing place.
Queenstown has an urban population of about 12,500, which makes it the third
largest urban area in Otago, behind Dunedin and Oamaru. Although archaeological
survey have proved that Maori did pass through the area, there were none about
when Nathanael Chalmers, together with his Maori guide, became the first
European to see Lake Wakatipu. Explorers
William Gilbert Rees, whose statue and memorial plaques are all about the town,
and Nicholas von Tunzelmann were the first Europeans to settle in the area.
Rees established a high country farm in 1860, but it was the discovery of gold
in the Arrow River in 1862 that brought real settlement to the area. Rees
converted his woolshed into a hotel and thus began the urban nature of the
place. Eventually the gold ran out and the population dwindled to almost
nothing until about 1950 when Queenstown began its life as a tourist
destination and more importantly the capital of adventure tourism.
With free or low cost camping opportunities a scarcity about
Queenstown, we decided to drive the ten kilometres north along the shores of
Lake Wakatipu and camp here at the Twelve Mile Delta DOC Camp. While the camp
is situated on the shores of the lake, the shore line is some distance from the
camping spots, the scrubby surrounds are not half as lovely as our spot last
night, but we are all allowed to be here and will pay for the privilege. Unlike
the many other campers here, we are glad to have our Annual DOC camping pass.
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