19 December 2016 - NZMCA Park, Lake Tekapo, Mackenzie Country

We woke to find we had shared our freedom camping spot with about twenty other parties, many of whom we saw disappear into the scrub beside the river to attend to their early morning needs; the long drop toilet was either outside their comfort zone, or the queues were too slow outside the one little shack. Needless to say I did not bother to find out but later made the remark to Chris that given the popularity of the spot, DOC would be well advised to install better facilities and charge the minimum camping fee,  if only to protect the environment.

Beside Lake Ruataniwha

The sun was shining and the skies clear as we headed away to the north west past stunning rural scenes and the not too distant mountains, all snow smattered as had been those further north. It was the first time we had travelled this route south to north, in the past heading in the reverse direction, and whether it was because of this or the fact that the weather could not have been any better, we appreciated the scenery more than ever before.

Just before we arrived at Twizel, we turned left and drove along the northern shore of Lake Ruataniwha, today so blue and clear. This lake covering an area of just over three square kilometres was formed as part of the Waitaki Hydro Project and while it does have a productive part to play in the scheme, it was developed by the Ministry of Works into a major recreational resource for the area, now one of New Zealand’s main rowing venues. Freedom camping is not allowed around the lake which is most unfortunate because it really does lend itself to this. Instead there is a very large commercial camping ground on the north western end of the lake.

Toward Mt Cook across Lake Pukaki

Today we drove down to a couple of the boat ramps then followed the canals back away from the lake, finally cutting back into the town of Twizel where we stopped to pick up a newspaper. As we came in from the back end of the town, we were amazed to see how much housing development has been carried out over the past few years. It really is quiet a lovely place which is contrary to the opinion I have had until today, but then the weather does make a difference.

Twizel was constructed in 1966 as a dormitory for the workers on the hydro scheme and was supposed to be bulldozed into extinction after completion of the works. Instead it continued to exist, housing the seasonal fishermen and hunters, looking like most has-been construction or forestry camp towns. Fortunately it has hung on in through the decades and today there is an attractive, albeit small, cluster of shops catering to the bare necessities of life for the residents and the travellers. A cousin of mine purchased a house or batch here some years ago and I wondered why he would want to bother, apart from the fact he is a shooting and hunting kind of guy. He subsequently sold it, and now I am thinking he would have done well to hold onto it. With all the tourists passing by, Twizel might well have a real place in the world, especially since its location on the Alps to Ocean Cycle trail.

Russell Lupins below Mt John

We drove on across the plateau between Twizel and Lake Pukaki, another of the lakes part of the Scheme, and paused to enjoy the views. Alas there was a bitter wind blowing off the snowy peaks of Mt Cook and the surrounding mountains, although their peaks were shrouded in cloud today. That was one of the reasons we decided not to drive the extra mileage up to Mt Cook Village and back apart from thinking it was a very long way to go for a walk we have done a couple of times before. We were surprised by the ferocity of the waves upon the shore at Lake Pukaki; one might be forgiven for thinking they had been teleported to a coastal surf beach.

Actually I do like to stay at the DOC camp up there, from which you hear the avalanches crashing down during the night, and from which there is one of the loveliest walks up into the Hooker Valley, however I have described the joys of this in past posts I am sure.

At the foot of Mt John

So instead, after a welcome cup of coffee and watching the tourists pose for their photos to be shared all around the world, or at least all around the Asian speaking world, we headed on to Lake Tekapo, almost another fifty kilometres through even more beautiful countryside, this time great swathes of road frontage bedecked in even more vibrant multi-coloured Russell lupins.

Just before arriving at the lake, we turned left with the intention of driving up to the Mt John Observatory. This too we have done before, but not since they have put a security gate on the entrance and started to charge $8 for the privilege of driving up the hill to look out over the area. Obviously there were not enough visitors willing to be ripped off at the café beside the observatories, and they decided it would be more lucrative to fleece the tourists at the gate. I suspect there are now less tourists willing to fork out for a cup of coffee and a scone after having paid an entry fee! Needless to say we did a U-turn and decided not to bother. However we were disappointed and I decided that this was probably another situation of having cut off our noses to spite our face.

Views over Lake Tekapo

Instead we pulled into the cultivated patch of Russell lupins beside the road, a charming and free spot we and millions of others do whenever the pass by. This year we have arrived at exactly the right time to see them at their best; I took another dozen photos to join all the rest in my photo archive. I say “cultivated” because they have been planted out with system for agricultural and scientific purpose.

Down in Lake Tekapo village, we found a level spot and lunched before heading out on foot in the cold wind to enjoy the sights. We crossed the new footbridge, just opened last year, and walked down to the Church of the Good Shepherd to find that closed until 2pm. I guess there is only one faithful parishioner who is willing to sit there all day and warn people against taking photos or defiling this special spot, and she needs a break at some point of the day. There were a lot of disappointed tourists who had obviously been looking forward to entering the little Church; instead they had to be satisfied with taking a photo of themselves outside, a backdrop that could have been absolutely anywhere.

We were glad to return to the motorhome and retreat from the blustery wind. We decided we would stay on at the lake and so found our way around to the large NZMCA park over property which is unchanged from the last time we were here; a bit lumpy and uneven, busy and quite lovely, more sheltered from the wind by the pines and willows by the lake.