Wednesday, 16 November 2016

17 November 2016 - Parua Bay, Whangarei Harbour, Northland




On Wednesday morning we readied ourselves for our departure. All loose chattels secure, buttons pushed and pegs on blinds (to limit the rattling while en route), I telephoned my friend who had again offered to accommodate our Isuzu; no answer. We decided to drive on up to their property, tuck the vehicle away in its corner and drop the key and a note somewhere safe. Moments before take-off, my phone rang; that would be Liz getting back to me. But no, it was my mother ringing from the doctor’s surgery car park in distress. My father had had a heart attack and was being taken by ambulance to the hospital. We dropped everything and hurried to her.

The day turned life upside down, although not in an entirely negative way; the worst could have occurred. We gathered in the A&E department at the hospital, to learn that my father was to be airlifted by helicopter to Auckland Hospital, my sister accompanying him, while my mother travelled south with Chris and I chauffeuring her in her car, a smarter and more comfortable vehicle than our twenty year old Isuzu. 

We found my father and sister in the labyrinths of the city’s hospital, already attended by a nephew who works in the city and had been able to hurry to his grandfather’s side. My other sister from Rotorua and her youngest daughter were on their way north, so finally we all assembled in the (fortunately) large sterile room, while my father held court from his bed, tubes and wires dangling, monitors and graphs all proving there was much life in the patriarch yet.

As the afternoon wore on, we were to learn that it wasn’t this, or that, or the other, but possibly something else that sounded rather odd, however all would be correctly revealed the next morning when the consultant and her entourage did their rounds.

And so we all retired to our various accommodation, my sisters, niece and mother all having secured beds in the Domain Lodge which caters firstly for out-of-Auckland patients undergoing treatment for cancer and then tops up with all-comers such as our crew. But alas there was no more room at the inn for gypsies; we were referred to a B&B hotel in nearby Parnell which proved to be an absolute gem. From there we were able to walk up into Parnell, buy a bottle of red at the local store from the Indian proprietors then dine in a recently opened Indian restaurant a little way down the hill. The next morning we learned that the Lodged family had ordered in pizzas and spent a wonderful evening catching up. 

Back up in the ward, we found my father much perkier, as well rested as one can be, woken every hour or so for signs of life. We spent over an hour enjoying each other’s company, with our laughter and chatter surely disturbing the folk down the corridor. This was a rare opportunity for my parents to have their three daughters under the one ceiling, a first since early 2008; there was the silver lining to this drama after all.

The consultant, exuding confidence and professional competence, finally arrived with her own support group, and viewed the six extras with surprised acceptance; we were after all, from the north and the central thermal area, homes to Nga Pui and Te Arawa, people who arrive by bus and camp on the floor of the hospital room of their sick members. We had the decency to sit on the two chairs and window sill out of the way.

After fifty questions and gentle probing and poking, she announced that my father had not suffered a heart attack after all, but was suffering a condition called pericarditis, inflammation of the two thin layers of sac-like tissue that surround the heart. While painful, it rarely causes death. This was all good news. The patient could be transferred back to his local hospital and return home once the pain issues were dealt with. Rather than the exciting helicopter ride, he would be transported north by ambulance later in the day, when a back load (human rather than freight) could be arranged.

We all set off, Cindy and her daughter back to Rotorua, and we four Northlanders on the road to Whangarei. Half way back we received a call from the hospital to advise that there was no bed available in Whangarei, so Dad would have to stay another night in Auckland. It was unfortunate that we had proceeded so far; Mum was adamant we continue on.

And so as I write this, my father lies in a hospital bed hitched up to medical machinery over two hundred kilometres away, but safely away from the claws of death, my mother wanders about her apartment eating an abbreviated dinner as women do when they are left alone and we are back in our motorhome out at Parua Bay, wondering what the days ahead will hold. We may delay our departure until early next week by which time my father should have stabilised and my mother free of anxiety. 

But then we have no deadlines, and now, as the daily reports flow in from the disaster areas in the South Island, and even from the capital city at the base of the North Island, the details of our three month trip away from Whangarei remain in limbo.

15 November 2016 Parua Bay, Whangarei Harbour, Northland




We have been back in the area for a few days now, although will be heading off tomorrow, once again on the road. The intervening days have seen us ticking off a long list of tasks to be completed but more memorably, living through days that will most likely embed themselves in our memory. 

Yesterday we rose to news of another major earthquake in the South Island, our oldest grandson’s fourteenth birthday and news that our youngest granddaughter had broken her leg in a trampolining accident.

Later we called into the bank and learned from another harbourside dweller that the tsunami siren had sounded at 1am and most had rolled over and gone back to sleep. I was a little more aware; I woke to the sound of a dog barking in the distance, got up to relieve myself and heard some idiot’s burglar alarm going off. It went on and on and I cursed it as I drifted back into sleep. It is just as well our possie here on Jumbo is well elevated from any real threat of seismic deluge.

The magnitude 7.5 earthquake, 15 kilometres northeast of Culverden in the South Island, struck at a depth of fifteen kilometres. Since then it has been variously described as the third worst earthquake in New Zealand during the last century, as well as being the worst. I guess it depends which seismologist is being interviewed, however all of that is academic to those in Kaikoura who are currently cut off from the world with the coastal road north and south of them, the only access in and out. Likewise those living in Blenheim and Wellington to name the more major settlements north of the earthquake centre are despaired at the mess of broken glass all about them; their windows, jars of preserves, mirrors, ornaments, just chaos. And all the while the aftershocks continue. Apparently the first biggy was felt from Invercargill in the south to Whangarei in the north; perhaps it was that and not the barking dog that woke me the night before last?

On a purely selfish level, we do wonder at the logistics of our planned trip to Christchurch and beyond when State Highway One is currently closed between Seddon and Waipara. Today we learned the Lewis Pass had reopened however the ferries are still in limbo since their loading structures were damaged in the quake. Obviously we will have to take one day at a time and deal with our visiting in the North Island first and review our plans as we travel further south.

In the meantime, we have had the belt on the Isuzu repaired again; the vehicle is no longer an embarrassment to drive, and the water pump in the camper has been replaced and seems to be functioning as it should.

Friday, 11 November 2016

11 November 2016 - Ngunguru Hall, Northland




We were up with the birds this morning and away immediately after breakfast. Chris was intent on returning to the Kaikohe auto electrician where we had had the pump switch replaced. I was keen to return to normality as far as the water supply was concerned, so did not voice my disappointment about leaving so soon.

As we retraced our route back down the Karikari Peninsula to the main road we were delighted to see a hawk rise up in front of us with a small dead rabbit in its talons. Better to be divvied up for the family off the road than risk becoming road kill itself. In fact there was a lot of road kill today, nearly all squashed possums in varying states of decay. 

Tutukaka horror
Now on State Highway 10, we came on down through the lovely seaside settlements of Taipa and Coopers Beach beside Doubtless Bay, then on through the scrubby swamp at the head of the Whangaroa Harbour, passing a sign that advertised “Septic Tank Cleaning: Steve’s Takeaways” which highly amused us, up river to Kaeo and on over the raised fertile lands about Kerikeri, passing olive groves, avocado and citrus orchards, finally turning onto a back road through to Ohaewai,  rejoining the main road west to Kaikohe, arriving about two hours from our overnight camp.

The technical whizz who had attended to our needs previously fiddled with the pump bits and reassured Chris that the new sounds were acceptable, and so we headed off again. Chris made noises about heading back toward Kerikeri, however I convinced him that there was little point in retracing our direction given the Northland Trip was rather ruined. Instead I suggested we continue south toward Whangarei but then detour around the coast road before reaching home.
Lunch stop at Sandy Bay

Coastal views frm near Tutukaka
So we followed State Highway One on down through Kawakawa where the Hunterwasser toilets are to be found, then on to Hikurangi which these days is home to so many of Whangarei’s commuting workers. Here we turned east and travelled up through rural country, more dead possums, gorgeous pheasants here wiser than their English counterparts and staying off the road, families of quail scurrying across the road, nikau palms reaching up to the heavens, ti-tree and totara, unhindered woolly nightshade.  The road, while all the while sealed, winds up and down out of narrow valleys, finally spitting the traveller out onto the sand lined shore at Sandy Bay. There we parked up and lunched while watching a couple of girls in wet suits try their hand at surfing. Alas the waves were less obliging and they finally gave up.

Further south we pulled into Tutukaka and found the waterfront double story apartment building now fully tenanted, the road level shops all busy and the residential units seemingly occupied. But we were shocked by the exterior colour change; some oddball has decided the building is more attractive looking like a fun palace, bold colours here and there bringing the tone down a notch or ten from the upmarket resort this is supposed to be. Tutukaka is all about the more well to-do folk who can afford the fancy launches and the life style that goes with it. Shocking pink, turquoise, and every other garish colour just doesn’t cut it!

Beside Ngunguru River
Ngunguru is just another hill away and we were soon checking out the two spots where NZMCA members’ self-contained motorhomes can stay, all for $5 paid to the local community. We elected to stay at the southern end of town and settled firstly behind the hall under the massive pohutukawa trees well screened from the road, however we soon found that the television reception was hopeless and relocated to a more exposed part of the parking area.

Once set up we went for a wander across the road and out and about Snell Point, a rocky outcrop which protrudes into the river. We poked around, scaled a couple of banks for views and generally messed about the shoreline, before heading back for a quiet afternoon. After nearly 250 kilometres, The Chauffeur deserved a relaxing afternoon, or at least until he was called upon to prepare dinner.

As I write this up, fireworks have started up, now a week after Guy Fawkes; this is the main gripe people have about fireworks; that it just goes on and on and on… There should be restrictions as to how long it can be played with. Maybe it is their tribute to Leonard Cohen who passed away today? 

Actually, I think these folk wouldn’t even know who he was!






10 November 2016 - Maitai Bay Recreation Reserve, Karikari Peninsula, Northland




We woke after an excellent night’s sleep, undisturbed by the good folk who live about at either Ngawha Springs or the all too close Ngawha Prison. I had heard a morepork through the night, and they seem only to haunt peaceful night skies. 

After breakfast we headed back into Kaikohe, firstly to the garage suggested last night where we found a chap who might have been able to help had he not already been committed to work afar, already running late. He suggested Birchall Auto Electric down the main street and sure enough they were happy to oblige, immediately replacing the worn out switch on the water pump. This does raise the question of how it has worn out after so little use; something else to sort out before we head off to the South Island for the summer.

While still in relative civilisation, we topped up with fuel and water, the latter reserves having been depleted during the repair session. Then we headed north toward Kaitaia, past Lake Omapere which has had major problems with algae over the last decade. Today the surface glistened with good health in the bright sunshine, a fact we rejoiced in before passing on down into the lovely Waihou Valley, then up and over the prosperous farmland about Umawera, down again to Mangamuka Bridge, both valleys at the head of the Hokianga Harbour. At the Bridge we stopped to buy a newspaper; to check whether we were the one lucky party to have struck the $44 million Lotto win overnight and to read the comments and review of the astounding election result to have come out of the USA. (Note: we won nothing and will stay off wasting our money on such stupidity until the next Big One)

We had forgotten how long the ascent of the Mangamukas was, climbing up through dense native forest. The road passes over near the summit, a height of 395 metres ASL. The northern descent is just as steep but seems shorter; I guess the Victoria Valley into which one descends is still well above sea level. From here it is less than twenty kilometres to Kaitaia and we were reminded that the countryside, dotted with puriri and totara trees, is really quite attractive from a residential point of view; our opinion has been coloured over the years by the sins and crimes of a certain section of the population who live north of the Mangamukas.

Chris was keen to take a break, but I was not interested in stopping in Kaitaia today; we needed nothing and had checked it out nearly eighteen months ago. So we carried on north and stopped for lunch at Awanui, from where one would carry on northward to Cape Reinga. 

Instead we took the easterly turn back toward Doubtless Bay, on past dozens of abandoned farm house shells, all of which would be better off razed to the ground, turning again north to travel up the Karikari Peninsula. The isthmus is not very wide and is low enough to easily imagine it covered by the sea not too many millennium ago. Toward the end of the peninsula the land rises up, leaving the seaside baches and facilities, through country that obviously remains in the local tribal hands. There at the end of the road is Maitai Bay, a sand rimmed bay broken in two with its own little inner peninsula, the boat launching area on the eastern bay and the camp on the western. 

Maitai Bay
We were surprised how many motorhomes were already here amongst the pohutakawa trees, many looking well established, as if they are staying as long as their DOC Passes will allow. We have again purchased a Pass but will stay only the one, or maybe two nights. The water pump is not operating as it ought and we are keen to be back in Whangarei for another round of appointments lined up for early next week; the pump will be just one more thing to attend to.

But for now we are enjoying the bird song, the fantails, plovers and pukekos with their leggy checks, gulls and a host of other little birds busy in the bushes. Two visitors came by, one less welcome than the other; the first a Maori boy on a horse just checking us all out and the other a black cat with white feet and a white tip on its tail. So much for no domestic animals or pests being allowed in the park!

Tomorrow we will wander out to the heads, taking advantage of the good weather before the rain front arrives.